Yona van Mansfeld’s muscles
Looking at Yona van Mansfeld’s latest collection, it reminded me of Matisse’s paintings, its strong colour blocks, the blue, the red, the sharp outlines, the round hips. But Yona’s inspiration in the ‘Elusive Clashing’ collection is Krijn de Koning, an artist who works with bright colors in modern objects and puts them in a classical environment; the most important part for her is draping. Maybe the bending point between Yona and Henry Matisse could be the fascination for a strong, trained feminine body.
Muscles, curves, skin and lines. She “puts the attention on these bodylines to accentuate the beautiful feminine silhouette and ads some estranging, body-reforming elements, tension is building up between the designs and the body, and gives the silhouette strength.”
“Ornamention is visible in my collection in my use of brocades and the dramatic long, draped pieces attached to some of the garments. The modern aspect shows in, for example, the very tight cut of the sleeves and use of neoprene. Primary colors clash with black and beige, while construction contrasts with drape, ridigity with flexibility, and woven fabrics with smooth, plain ones — all combined in one garment. In this collection I worked with small channels which I put a cord through, causing the garment to wrinkle and take on whatever shape and form I wanted. One dress started as a simple wide blouse with a wrinkled armhole which I made tighter to the body and longer; the pattern is totally the opposite of what you see when the piece is worn.”
Eindhoven based designer Bart Hess, already noticed by DC, has created this brilliant video introducing the graduate designers’ work of the Dutch Fashion Academy’s students (Yona van MAnsfeld under others) for MODEbelofte 2011, the fashion part of the Dutch Design Week. Re-shaping the human silhouette in a fluid slow motion exploring volumes, while only focusing on the garments. The video is an absolute work of art making him the winner of the MINI Young Designer Award.
Photography: Jasper Abels