The beginnings of seasons are like the silence before the storm. The shoots are done the issue is out and we are ready for the new season. When I first saw Oscar de la Renta – in the first image- I was thinking ‘Oh what an interesting choice of color order!’ it instantly reminded me of my time in university and our Traffic Light themed parties where everybody would dress according to their relationship status. Red would be unavailable and green would be ‘Go for it’.
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This past season was a joy to work with. The combination of precious skins for a more powerful and all-together women’s silhouette made it worthwhile. The boyish charm of Dolce & Gabbana, the severe elegance of Marni, Hitchcockian women of Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton’s The Night Porter references and many others as Haider Ackermann and Moschino . These happen to be in a selection of my favorite shows. The question that ponders the mind is how do we steal than spree?
By Malene Birger solves this matter for us extraordinarily. Danish designer also named the Danish Brand of the year founded By Malene Birger name in 2003. Before this she had a collection of Day Birger et Mikkelsen. The beautiful collection offers a high quality, top tailored style steals of the catwalks. Malene Birger followed the trends of the season well and elaborated on these micro and macro trends well.
So, first up is Dolce Gabbana and the boy-chic. Style a nice suit with a waist coat, ankle length booties -flats are a preference- use a fedora to style it up to boy zone. No need for a tie; but may be a bow tie even!
Marni’s lady like collection is all about layering and proportions which we are familiar by now that is a big trend in the fall season. Mono tones and sub-tones are the key for this look. Combine similar colours with each other. Prefer knee length skirts and oversized coats with shorter sleeves and use them with long leather or even knit gloves to reach the proportional beauty. Use jewelry and accessories to finish the look to a perfection.
Haider Ackermann has been a personal favorite of mine. This look is perfect for a little mix and match of fabrics and textures. Leather with suede, silk and sequins have a fur coat on and ready to go. Malene Birger put together a collection specially for the Christmas time coming around. Use a chiffon or a silky even sequin skirt, full length, bring it together with a leather jacket and make it a full look with a sleeveless fur coat on top and go rock chic.
Moschino also used Charlotte Rampling in The Night Porter as Louis Vuitton and used the notorious hats that have been Vogue since the start of the season. A white sleek tuxedo saves the whole day if you want to go for suits but not look boyish at all. I personally like to combine blazers with tshirts to take the edge off the seriousness of the look however shirts are accepted too. Since having a porter hat is not the most fancied thing, use any other style -besides berets- but keep it simple with black or white. Use a necklace however I would put the bow side on the front and keep the pearls on the side. Use accessories and high heels to complete the look.
Marlene Birger and both of her brands, By Marlene Birger and Day Birger et Mikkelsen are good for a styling because of their high tailoring and sense of trend. Definitely to shop for!
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Melissa is a brand I never found very interesting, funny or cute maybe, but nothing I could ever think to buy. I am not fond of plastic shoes even if I have to admit I own two pairs of Marni plastic sandals that someone has given to me years ago. Nevertheless I must say that Melissa has changed a lot in recent years, both in communication than in style, they are promoting more and more interesting collaborations with international designers and they manifest an Eco side that deserves all my respect.
The last week I was invited at Corso Como 10, my favorite place in Milan where to spend time dreaming to buy all the compelling pieces they sell; the gorgeous concept store has been the place for the presentation of the new collection designed by Gareth Pugh for Melissa. I witnessed a very interesting event rich of graphic explosions with stripes and stars that welcomed me in the shop while Gareth was wandering in the entrance hall from an interview to another.
The British designer has proposed two different pieces, the more classic ballerina “open toe” which Gareth has simply decorated with his patterns, and the “Aileron”, a brand new sandal that takes inspiration from Scottish architectural shapes (The Armadillo in Glasgow). Although Melissa has already collaborated with several other brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Gaetano Pesce, Jean Paul Gaultier and Jason Wu, Gareth Pugh has a special and closer relationship with the Brazilian brand, in fact they have provided shoes for his second show. I think the designer has done a very good job, along with the pairs of Gaetano Pesce these are the ones I prefer more.
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VIDEO MARNI SUMMER EDITION 2010
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Spring is almost gone, but the beautiful collections are still here
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Marni – Fall 2009 Ready to wear
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Bruno Frisoni
Christian Loubutin
Miu Miu
Roger Vivier
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Marc Jacobs
Miu Miu
Pierre Hardy
Prada
Pierre Hardy
MiuMiu
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Roger Vivier
Le nuove calzature sembrano sempre più plasmate da un blocco unico di materia da cui traggono vita.
Fashion Designers or Sculptors?
These shoes seems that they are shaped by a single block of matter from which derive.
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Ho molti amici che per lavoro si trovano spesso in tutte le fiere del settore moda (Pitti Uomo, Bread&Butter, Designers & Agents, etc.). Capita anche a me per lavoro di dover visitarne qualcuno. È il primo anno però in cui dopo tempo, ho ricevuto notizia di qualcosa degno di nota… bei vestiti, bell’esecuzione… qualcosa che [...]
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