Spring Summer 2012 have been a futuristic breath of air to the luxurious, precious women we’ve experienced in the fall winter 2011 collections. High technology in prints, and patterning as well as laser cut have been adapted by many designers. Marc Jacobs used embellishment, sequins as well as vinyl and sheer fabrics as skirts. These fabrics almost remind me of the wrapping papers we used to cover our school books. Reed Krakoff in bright yellow used again the vinyl. Chanel was a little different as they used lurex, shiny metallic colored skirts.
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What I mean by the New Black is not the color trends of the Spring Summer 2012 but a new way of wearing black. For sure Audrey Hepburn is a classic and a Hervé Léger goes a long way in our wardrobes! However the new black for the past two seasons have been in a paradox between structured and neo-gothic or romantic, Interview with the Vampire like. Comme Des Garcons and Chanel are really good two examples for these trends. Comme Des Garcons for structured leather and bonnets was a hit. And Chanel, I was absolutely stunned by the lace one pieces combined with grey tweed capes.
Totally a reference to the well known movie. How does this trend follow up in the Spring Summer 2012? Prints, lace, knits, birds, cats (not pretty kittens but Givenchy-like pumas jaguars) and chiffon combined and mixed in one pot. By now everyone around the world knows my obsession of Alexander McQueen and Sarah Burton has outdone herself again for the brand of the beloved designer. Leather, lace, chiffon combinations and corsets. While these make the feeling of the collection a little dark, a little bit of fetish the lace face covers I think are controversial to its purpose. Consider them as a veil and the feel of the whole collections rather turns around to become more Valentino-esque.
For those who like having the labels on models and going for a designer based shopping spree Angelos Frentzos might be the answer. Even the AW11 collection carries a Comme Des Garcons inspiration with the name resembling the looks; “Cracked Blackbirds”. After studying at the Athens School of Fine Arts and Printing he specialized as a print designer for textile companies. He teamed up with Sophia Kokosalaki and created a conceptual experimental collection based on the moods of the new age music. He was named the Creative Director of Alma, the Italian fashion house after his second degree in CSM. His Spring Summer 2012 collection ‘Strangeway Sunpetals’ have an obvious concept on the prints. First resembling the AW11 Givenchy, looking closer at the shapes over white and over black tells us exactly how to have the new black in the SS wardrobe.
Definitely have prints, definitely have chiffon, have them oversize, have them in silk, knit even go for leather like McQ or florals of Dries Van Noten. Go romantic and go gothic; flowers, animals and nature for all.
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Converse has collaborated with many we know, namely Marimekko that I mentioned earlier this season. However this one is a little more interesting, I think, because it involves a true fashion inspiration by Riccardo Tisci, the artistic director of the French couture house Givenchy. He used the iconic leopard print that appeared first in the [...]
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Instead of captivating us with her violet eyes, Caterina Gatta bewitches us with her brand new collection made entirely with original signed vintage fabrics, rich in their history and light in their shapes and image, coming back to light from hidden, as it would happen in a dark and dusty old stockhouse.
I met her at the unique vintage store Elio Ferraro in Milan where I went to visit my friend Sabrina Querci… what other place to hide for an emerging designer, if not a treasure chest full of signed pieces to take inspiration from!
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Marc Jacobs
Miu Miu
Pierre Hardy
Prada
Pierre Hardy
MiuMiu
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Roger Vivier
Le nuove calzature sembrano sempre più plasmate da un blocco unico di materia da cui traggono vita.
Fashion Designers or Sculptors?
These shoes seems that they are shaped by a single block of matter from which derive.
Morethanlove
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Ho molti amici che per lavoro si trovano spesso in tutte le fiere del settore moda (Pitti Uomo, Bread&Butter, Designers & Agents, etc.). Capita anche a me per lavoro di dover visitarne qualcuno. È il primo anno però in cui dopo tempo, ho ricevuto notizia di qualcosa degno di nota… bei vestiti, bell’esecuzione… qualcosa che [...]
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