Spring Summer 2012 have been a futuristic breath of air to the luxurious, precious women we’ve experienced in the fall winter 2011 collections. High technology in prints, and patterning as well as laser cut have been adapted by many designers. Marc Jacobs used embellishment, sequins as well as vinyl and sheer fabrics as skirts. These fabrics almost remind me of the wrapping papers we used to cover our school books. Reed Krakoff in bright yellow used again the vinyl. Chanel was a little different as they used lurex, shiny metallic colored skirts.
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What I mean by the New Black is not the color trends of the Spring Summer 2012 but a new way of wearing black. For sure Audrey Hepburn is a classic and a Hervé Léger goes a long way in our wardrobes! However the new black for the past two seasons have been in a paradox between structured and neo-gothic or romantic, Interview with the Vampire like. Comme Des Garcons and Chanel are really good two examples for these trends. Comme Des Garcons for structured leather and bonnets was a hit. And Chanel, I was absolutely stunned by the lace one pieces combined with grey tweed capes.
Totally a reference to the well known movie. How does this trend follow up in the Spring Summer 2012? Prints, lace, knits, birds, cats (not pretty kittens but Givenchy-like pumas jaguars) and chiffon combined and mixed in one pot. By now everyone around the world knows my obsession of Alexander McQueen and Sarah Burton has outdone herself again for the brand of the beloved designer. Leather, lace, chiffon combinations and corsets. While these make the feeling of the collection a little dark, a little bit of fetish the lace face covers I think are controversial to its purpose. Consider them as a veil and the feel of the whole collections rather turns around to become more Valentino-esque.
For those who like having the labels on models and going for a designer based shopping spree Angelos Frentzos might be the answer. Even the AW11 collection carries a Comme Des Garcons inspiration with the name resembling the looks; “Cracked Blackbirds”. After studying at the Athens School of Fine Arts and Printing he specialized as a print designer for textile companies. He teamed up with Sophia Kokosalaki and created a conceptual experimental collection based on the moods of the new age music. He was named the Creative Director of Alma, the Italian fashion house after his second degree in CSM. His Spring Summer 2012 collection ‘Strangeway Sunpetals’ have an obvious concept on the prints. First resembling the AW11 Givenchy, looking closer at the shapes over white and over black tells us exactly how to have the new black in the SS wardrobe.
Definitely have prints, definitely have chiffon, have them oversize, have them in silk, knit even go for leather like McQ or florals of Dries Van Noten. Go romantic and go gothic; flowers, animals and nature for all.
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Old brands with new designers face the future and we will surely see other solutions that will amaze us for unexpected mingling. Paco Rabanne was one of these, Manish Arora has definitely raised the brand, creating figures coming from parallel universe, I thought I saw modern cool aliens. I really loved his personal interpretation of the metal forms that he transformed giving them a fit that probably they never had before.
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Watch out boring people, Karl is here! Here with an extraordinary shoot starring Clemence Poesy, Anna Maria Jagodzinska and his muse Baptiste Giabiconi. The editorial shows a very dark vampire inspired scene both shot and modeled by Lagerfeld himself in an Interview with the Vampire theme. However, it is not a vampire being interviewed but Lagerfeld himself.
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The stripes are absolutely everywhere this season. With many options in colour, sideways or up, varying in thickness. How come stripes are so ‘in’ most of the time? Michel Pastoureau has written all about it in the book called The Devil’s Cloth: A history of stripes and striped fabric. During the medieval times, the eye found any surface in which a background was not distinguishable from the foreground and was disturbing.
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Some fashion movies you can’t miss
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A shooting and a short movie by Karl Lagerfeld
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The making of a couture outfit by Chanel and Dior in two 3 minutes video
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Le idee più dolci del fashion system.
The sweetest ideas in the fashion system.
Ariko
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Chanel
via Style
Morethanlove
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Marc Jacobs
Miu Miu
Pierre Hardy
Prada
Pierre Hardy
MiuMiu
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Roger Vivier
Le nuove calzature sembrano sempre più plasmate da un blocco unico di materia da cui traggono vita.
Fashion Designers or Sculptors?
These shoes seems that they are shaped by a single block of matter from which derive.
Morethanlove
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Delfina Delettrez
Morethanlove
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Si chiama Paris Texas è una linea di tshirt e pantaloni color in distribuzione dalla prossima estate.
It’s a new line called “Paris Texas” available in shops from the next summer.
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