Posts Tagged ‘Alexander McQueen’
I went to Camera 16, a tiny but beautiful art gallery in Milan, the curator has organized an amazing retrospective of the legend of Leigh Bowery, one of the most avantgarde and controversial figures of the ’80s / ’90s, whose life has been narrated through photographs shot by Fergus Greer and Johnny Rozsa.
Leigh Bowery had an eclectic personality, he was an artist, a performer, a fashion designer, an aspiring pop star and an object of art, he has changed the visual language influencing the world around him. Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Lucian Freud, Boy George, Antony and the Johnsons and David LaChapelle have shared and spread his ideas of style. Leigh Bowery had an uncommon ability to change identities.
It represented a kind of soul who did not accept rules of behavior and appearance. His vision of art testified a closeness to trans genders, the overcoming of the distinction between male and female, he proposed codes of seduction and communication through body and clothes, living room to new concepts of glamor and beauty.
February 10 – March 31 2012 . Camera 16, Via Pisacane 16, Milan, Italy.
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Georgia Hardinge is our new find! Hardinge’s Spring Summer 2012 collection have had a great impact on me not only due to the quality of the fabrics and the liquidity of the looks but also due to the great shapes she creates silhouettes showing the female form. She studied in Parsons Paris School or Art and Design in 2008 and was awarded the ‘Golden Thimble’ award for best design on her graduation collection.
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The beginnings of seasons are like the silence before the storm. The shoots are done the issue is out and we are ready for the new season. When I first saw Oscar de la Renta – in the first image- I was thinking ‘Oh what an interesting choice of color order!’ it instantly reminded me of my time in university and our Traffic Light themed parties where everybody would dress according to their relationship status. Red would be unavailable and green would be ‘Go for it’.
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Prints over prints over prints. We will never get tired of prints and they will never leave us too. The season we’ve seen the floral, art deco, paisley, jungle and even vegetables! Altuzarra. Louis Vuitton, Dolce Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood, Comme Des Garcons and many had the classic floral prints besides many others on their collections. Now, using these prints on a daily basis is tricky. It might seem over done or as barely making a fashion statement. I’ve put this ‘how to wear floral prints’ on a daily basis schema.There is really not a single way to use the florals on your cupboard as this season many stylists have interpreted this trend with a different approach.
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Spring Summer 2012 have been a futuristic breath of air to the luxurious, precious women we’ve experienced in the fall winter 2011 collections. High technology in prints, and patterning as well as laser cut have been adapted by many designers. Marc Jacobs used embellishment, sequins as well as vinyl and sheer fabrics as skirts. These fabrics almost remind me of the wrapping papers we used to cover our school books. Reed Krakoff in bright yellow used again the vinyl. Chanel was a little different as they used lurex, shiny metallic colored skirts.
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What I mean by the New Black is not the color trends of the Spring Summer 2012 but a new way of wearing black. For sure Audrey Hepburn is a classic and a Hervé Léger goes a long way in our wardrobes! However the new black for the past two seasons have been in a paradox between structured and neo-gothic or romantic, Interview with the Vampire like. Comme Des Garcons and Chanel are really good two examples for these trends. Comme Des Garcons for structured leather and bonnets was a hit. And Chanel, I was absolutely stunned by the lace one pieces combined with grey tweed capes.
Totally a reference to the well known movie. How does this trend follow up in the Spring Summer 2012? Prints, lace, knits, birds, cats (not pretty kittens but Givenchy-like pumas jaguars) and chiffon combined and mixed in one pot. By now everyone around the world knows my obsession of Alexander McQueen and Sarah Burton has outdone herself again for the brand of the beloved designer. Leather, lace, chiffon combinations and corsets. While these make the feeling of the collection a little dark, a little bit of fetish the lace face covers I think are controversial to its purpose. Consider them as a veil and the feel of the whole collections rather turns around to become more Valentino-esque.
For those who like having the labels on models and going for a designer based shopping spree Angelos Frentzos might be the answer. Even the AW11 collection carries a Comme Des Garcons inspiration with the name resembling the looks; “Cracked Blackbirds”. After studying at the Athens School of Fine Arts and Printing he specialized as a print designer for textile companies. He teamed up with Sophia Kokosalaki and created a conceptual experimental collection based on the moods of the new age music. He was named the Creative Director of Alma, the Italian fashion house after his second degree in CSM. His Spring Summer 2012 collection ‘Strangeway Sunpetals’ have an obvious concept on the prints. First resembling the AW11 Givenchy, looking closer at the shapes over white and over black tells us exactly how to have the new black in the SS wardrobe.
Definitely have prints, definitely have chiffon, have them oversize, have them in silk, knit even go for leather like McQ or florals of Dries Van Noten. Go romantic and go gothic; flowers, animals and nature for all.
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Remember being a kid and making paintings where clouds were purple and the sun was blue? Some people don’t grow old, hence never stop being creative and chasing after what they have come to this world to do. And it is in fact Friedrich Nietzsche who said: “The overman…Who has organized the chaos of his passions, given style to his character, and become creative. Aware of life’s terrors, he affirms life without resentment.” Bernhard Willhelm, born in the heat of 70s in Ulm.
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Old brands with new designers face the future and we will surely see other solutions that will amaze us for unexpected mingling. Paco Rabanne was one of these, Manish Arora has definitely raised the brand, creating figures coming from parallel universe, I thought I saw modern cool aliens. I really loved his personal interpretation of the metal forms that he transformed giving them a fit that probably they never had before.
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Cathy Edwards from Central Saint Martins knows who is made for fashion and who’s not, the parade of MA graduates brought more of a talent. Probably over the latest years is quite common that the name Phoebe corrisponds to a great talent for fashion (Phoebe Philo = Celine), Phoebe English looks set to this, she won the L’Oreal Professionel Creative and she worked on a project with a very original and unique concept: hair and dark women. Phoebe created a catwalk full of floating figures where the hair appear and disappear according to the body movement, revealing glimpses
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I don’t know if fashion should be taken seriously, the thing I know is that this duo of designers is not kidding at all, at least when it comes to style. Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton (the surname could be defined in Latin as “nomen omen”, your name is your destiny) are two guys very skilled, they collaborated for international guru of fashion such as Karl Lagerfield, Alexander McQueen and many others. Their collections are very avant-garde in the style, in the lines and in the approach to fashion, maybe they are a signal that something is changing (…)
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and do they make any sense….nowadays? The introduction says that “a suggestive perspective has been adopted, to show how the history of contemporary art and of rock music have followed parallel paths to contribute to the construction of the cultural universe of the last forty years.
Music and the visual arts have crossed and overlapped, over time, engendering a unified and consistent landscape; what draws them together is the performative dimension, articulated according to the specific occasion within an exhibition or a concert…
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“For me fashion is an expression of art that is very close related to me and to my body. I see it as my expression of identity combined with desire, moods and cultural setting.” says the brilliant talent Iris van Herpen. Born in the Netherlands she started her eponymous brand in 2007 after studying Fashion Design at ARTEZ and finishing her internship with beloved Alexander McQueen. She won many awards in the Dutch media besides her showcases in London, Amsterdam, Spain and finally, received the appreciation she deserves with her show “Escapism” in 2011 Paris Couture Week. To her, fashion is a contrast between beauty and regeneration, by which she means; reevaluating reality and underlining individuality.
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The summer has began. At least for the ones who work in the fashion business. I was at shoots all weekend holding a dozen of the latest designs of the top designers and the upcoming ones. I got teary eyed with a Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen design and of course -now a classic- a Balmain jacket. Besides falling in love with gorgeous dresses and with many, -many- shoes I had reached my limit for sure. I felt like I was tied to the chair with someone torturing me, knowing I wouldn’t be able to see them again until they hit the stores in a couple of months.
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Here I share with you an intense moment: the Tribute to Alexander McQueen by Nick Knight.
Some news I’ve found speak about a film about the designer’s life. I think Maybe it’s too soon…or not? I just keep waiting for new collections under his name…pretending for 10 seconds nothing happened, because he was one of THE persons I want to meet.
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When we are young we are keen on dressing as superman, wonder woman, cinderella on the night of the Hallows. However, the gap between how we dress on Halloween from our daily couture is getting smaller each season in order to keep up with the drama of life. May it be John Galliano or Gareth Pugh we dress according to our fantasies and not really jeans and…
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Talking about the primary collection I can only bow in front of the american designer
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Polimoda’s pattern making class exhibition
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One of the most genuine geniuses of the fashion world has gone.
Ariko
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Spring is almost gone, but the beautiful collections are still here
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Anche Alexander McQueen, alla fine, ha deciso di prestare il suo nome a una capsule collection per la catena di fast fashion Target. Qualcosa di molto simile a quanto già proposto da H&M con le sue collezioni in collaborazione con altri designers.
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Marc Jacobs
Miu Miu
Pierre Hardy
Prada
Pierre Hardy
MiuMiu
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Roger Vivier
Le nuove calzature sembrano sempre più plasmate da un blocco unico di materia da cui traggono vita.
Fashion Designers or Sculptors?
These shoes seems that they are shaped by a single block of matter from which derive.
Morethanlove
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Un marchio veramente interessante, frutto della collaborazione dei designers americani Mike Gonzalez e Christine Park-Gonzalez. Uno stile fresco e sofisticato, fatto di piccoli pezzi curatissimi nei dettagli. Cavallo di battaglia: i giubbotti in pelle e le felpe… deliziosi! Anche più bella la linea uomo, e alcuni degli accessori.
A very interesting brand, born from the collaboration [...]
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Agent Provocateur serfa allegramente tra diversi temi, tutti molto sensuali ed elettrizzanti, dalla stagione delle streghe alla pirates experience. Con pezzi della collezione sempre al filo tra il romantico ed il supersexy, nella nuova esperienza “web-tografica”, modelle famose e non si divertono a tirare di spada, seviziando i pirati per scovare il tesoro. Si parte [...]
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