Pauline Van Dongen: Molding Plissé
Pauline van Dongen was born in Amsterdam and she graduated Fashion Design BA from Academy of the Arts in Arnhem in the Netherlands.
In 2008 Pauline Van Dongen graduated with a BA in Fashion Design from the renowned Artez, Academy of the Arts in Arnhem, the Netherlands. It was there that she first met with the French method of pattern drafting called “moulage” (mold) Later she began printing silk jersey with puff ink applying heat to the fabric. During this process, she discovered that the ink expanded and pulled the fabric into a resilient and flexible plissé. She then continued her studies with a Masters Program at the Fashion Institute of Arnhem. During a shoe design course Product design took her attention too. And for her graduation project; ‘Morphogenesis’ she tried the technique of 3D printing gave her the opportunity to translate the sculptural feel of her garments into a rigid form.
The polyamide creations maintained the organic lines of her work with fabric. The outcome are these striking shoes that lend a futuristic look and feel to her overall collection.Her graduation collection Morphogenesis was awarded
‘most creative collection’ by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana at Mittelmoda.
For Pauline’s FW11 ‘Stereopsis’ collection she quoted Goethe: “There is a strong shadow where there is much light”. And let’s be honest, many have used the contrast between shadow and light in their art mainly, most beloved Caravaggio. And just as the master’s own works Pauline Van Dongen used this concept in her collection. She explained ‘Stereopsis’ as: “As the eyes of humans and other animals are in different positions on the head, they present different views simultaneously. This is the basis of stereopsis, the process by which the brain exploits the parallax due to the different views from the eye to gain depth perception and estimate distances to objects.” This is the starting point of her womenswear collection Stereopsis, in which she explored this phenomenon.
Pauline’s newest collection is the ‘Kinetic Landscapes’. The concept was behind catching the moves of the two powerful elements in nature; air and water. The form of the dresses and the garments show the effects of these two elements on the surface of the earth. Offering an aesthetic of graphic lines and smooth curves with striking materials around the body.
Photography by Mike Nicolaassen
niente by nil