Design Catwalk
Luke Brooks’ fashionable gravestones rubbings

Death as a part of life, death as an inspiration, why not? We saw it last week with Winde Reinstra’s Mourning Cloaks collection, this time the designer is Luke Brooks, CSM graduate and winner of last year’s L’Oréal prize, who made his AW13 collection on the concept of gravestones rubbing. He says:

For AW13, I wanted to do something different to my MA collection, something cleaner but still emotional and chaotic. I recalled some samples I’d made a few years ago at The London Brass Rubbing Centre, located in the underbelly of St Martin-in-the-Fields. They involved using wax to rub an engraved image onto Tyvek, a paper-like synthetic fabric with a soft underside. At the time the idea didn’t go anywhere, but I saw that it had a certain poetry in its simplicity.

I realised that the same thing could be done with gravestones, to perhaps an even more thought-provoking and striking effect. It emerged that there are many unusual headstones located in New England, USA, which had been carved by the early settlers (late 17th and 18th century stones). The Farber Gravestone Collection, which documents over 9,000 unique headstone images in the area, was a fascinating resource. (…) The construction of the collection was about how to best project this idea of the memory of these departed bodies in relation to the living wearer.



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