GORI DE PALMA My way or the Highway
Talking to Gori de Palma gives me the thrills, his long beard, his recklessness; he’s such a hipster, but the most important thing: he’s an icon of the underground and independent Spanish fashion circuit. Gori has always flirted with the thin line of hard core, he gets inspired in sexual perversions, punk, rock and subcultures; all of this always seen through his characteristic dark filter.
Goris’ story is quite particular. With only 17 years he started working as a naval carpenter in Palma de Mallorca, after that his passion for speed, cars and bikes brought him to work as a mechanic in a repair shop and live a frantic life with bikers and speed lovers, years after, reckless as usual, he decided to move to Barcelona, and give a turnover to his career, studying tailoring and incurring the world of fashion.
After opening a little garment customizing and recycling store in Barcelona he was invited to participate in Pasarela Gaudi (former 080 Barcelona fashion week) almost 7 years ago, since that everybody is looking forward for Goris’ show, either it’s something shocking or conceptual.
Even though the fact that Gori started working with rough materials, hard tools and grease and then becoming a fashion designer might seem a little bit contrasting, he explained to me why he finds both trades quite similar; “making a dress is like building a car, you change the chassis, you sew a sleeve, it all consists of putting pieces together”.
This quite seems to me like i’m discovering the De Palma’s formula: Feminine body=Cars=Object
My conclusion might be a little bit difficult for some to understand but with Gori everything can have a meaning of it’s own.
His last collection “A very short song” is a bridge collection with lustful sexy pieces with 40’s and 50’s lingerie patterns in tweed, were once again he seeks to provoke and incite the sexual drive proposing inner garments as external outfits; the shows’ location, a bike repair shop in Barcelonas’ industrial area, lots of rum and coke and a rock band after the fashion show. The aim was “to show the real spirit of the brand, not just a impersonal catwalk that shows a brand with no spirit, something more simple but more authentic”. That night we had a blast, we partied in Goris’ style; his way or the highway.
backstage “1%” by Jose Morraja
“1%” lookbook F/W 11/12
Backstage “Rat Scabies” SS11 by Christian di Stefano
“Ecorche” SS10 by Cristian Di Stefano
“Coffee and cigarettes” F/W 2011
Detail “Amante, querida, puta” (Lover, sweetheart, whore) FW 07/08
“Die Rote Rechte Hand” SS 06 by Gustavo López Mañas