The new Trussardi 1911 Fall/Winter 2010-2011 Women’s Collection inspired by French chic of the early seventies.

Silhouettes bring to mind the black & white photos of Jeanloup Sieff and David Bailey and icons of style such as Romy Schneider, Jane Birkin and Catherine Deneuve. Classic pieces are updated. Thanks to the maison’s nearly century of expertise, everything is mixed, layered, and reinvented, inspired by a passion for Prince of Wales and Pied-de-Poule prints. These two patterns dominate cropped vis-a-vis jackets in boucle wool and Lurex or in tweed. They also line leather, have denim inserts, or are decorated with contrasting fringed wool trim that is even woven through chain shoulder straps on handbags with the same pattern.

Milan Vukmirovic brings back the French tradition of the robe-manteau, the coat dress, that now comes in wool and Lurex and features a zipper leitmotif that reveals unique necklines and slits. The coat dress even comes in a fitted light sheepskin version with a sexy center zipper that also triumphs on booties and bags. Booties have boucle? wool applique?s and are decorated with metal chains woven with fabric or fur. Boots, pumps, and low boots come in matelasse? material, and ankle boots have a bustier-like frontlet.

“Fur combined with leather, crystals for your feet and bags you will fall in love with. Hot shots of the new Trussardi’s collection.”

Morethanlove

Mind the guys, they know how to dress up for a short “tram” ride. How to be cool along a cold afternoon around Milan’s public transportations. Looking at the girl’s details nothing is left to chance!!!

Morethanlove

Mawi – the designer

David Koma and Mary Katrantzou’s designs and Lisa (left) and Teresa (right) from the staff

It is not weird at all for me to put this heavy metal rockin’ accessories brand side a side to sweetness:  ’cause for me Mawi is also that.

I visit them at White, in Milan, it has been 4 seasons now, and they are just lovely people, smiling and enjoying life and work, starting from designer herself, Mawi.  For sure succeeding in what you do helps (this summer the brand was in many Vogue editorials in different contries’ editions at the same time and gets quoted, collaborates, and inspires worldwide as seen on the blog), but fashion is apparently never too much filled with jealousy and distance.  Having a chat with Teresa from the staff we noticed how too often, maybe mostly in Italy, people of fashion biz think that a certain coolness (or better coldness) has to be part of image, and this sometimes happens to forget even to say hello and goodbye when you visit a stand in a trade fair.

I actually love it that young designers have generally a completely different and more collaborating approach that doesn’t stop them from creating strong and cool product like the Mawi collection is for sure.

The latest is made of all pieces that call back again on heavy metal in a style that only Mawi can do in perfect harmony with “hurt and elegance”. By the way I am not suggesting but just considering that wearing it could be an unexpected help when you have to defend yourself.

julikafrombudapest

MOI MULTIPLE by Anna Ceccon

Process IV: CAUTION FRAGILE

The new collection from Moi Multiple gives body to that feeling through whisper light fabrics and fragile, intangible structures that protect like warm winter fabrics.

Caution Fragile:  Beware! Body and soul are to be elated, but also protected. That’s why Organza and silk creponne are set to heavier materials like wool crepe, Alcantara, felt and soft cashmere. Traditional lingerie details are reinstated and are brought again to the forefront, taking the role as semi-transparent scaffolding.

Unique combinations of materials give life to soft, ultra-light soft jackets that flaunt fluffy linings while passing between form and structure.

Gems, buttons and Tyrolean knots are set in Alcantara, giving an unexpected vacuum like effect. The particularities pay homage to yesteryear and captivating trompe l’oeils. The volume shared with the body draw a silhouette ever the more feminine and sensual.

Photographer Jody Mattioli by Ariko

Franka Emme (which work we reviewed here) by Ariko

Ariko by Franka Emme

There is a new magazine which project we strongly believe in: Trust Me Magazine. On March 9th DesignCatwalk joined the launching party at YAB in Florence.

Trust Me was started by Susanna Luna Bellandi and  Gloria Giangrande, who graduated in Industrial Design in Florence and then spent six months at Central Saint Martins in London with a mission: create a magazine gathering all the things that they like in fashion, trends, photography, design, open to any collaboration by “super contemporary people” and totally free.

The result is a monographic issue, extremely diverse in the media and content, in which the complexity of team work should take precedence over the subjectivity of the individual page.

If you wish to join Trust Me for the next issue (#3, The Blue Issue) you can send your ideas (A4 size Jpg or Eps files, 270 dpi) to info@trustmemagazine.com

Ariko

Franca Sozzani . Pure elegance

Massimiliano Bizzi . White team

Fedor Vozianov

Alessandro Dell’Acqua

Michael Tetteh Nartey and Alexander Helle . Norwegian Rain

Vivì Ponti . Vivetta

Alain Quilici

The designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua has selected and awarded Crown Leather as one of the emerging designers
of  the event “INSIDE WHITE”.

The project “WHITE  and VOGUE Introduce” has been protagonist of a party held at the Grand Hotel et de Milan organized for about 400 people among which the editor of Vogue Italy Franca Sozzani, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, and some of the designers selected: Fedor Vozianov, Michael Tetteh Nartey and Alexander Helle of Norwegian Rain, Alain Quilici and TÔ Long-Nam. The Italian Martina Grasselli has been selected for her collection of jewels COLIAC.

Julikafrombudapest: Hi Vivetta, I met you first back in university days but we never had the chance to really get to know each other. But since the first collection pieces I saw come out I loved your brand so much, and I started following you on your fan page and facebook profile. It felt nice to read you spontaneous feelings about your professional life changes, of some happiness, if you allow me to say that, coming from the realization of mental and physical work and also inspiring collaboration with friends of similar sensibility (Ilenia Corti Ed). How really were the last 2 years? Is it really fun?

Vivetta: The first steps were hard: my first collection was not produced: I gave it to a showroom that did not sell even one piece. Anyway I didn’t lose heart and I went on. In 2008 I won who’s next (premiere classe), fresh lounge competition and gained so the possibility to participate for free at the trade show in september that year; there my first clients and Vivetta met and the story started.
I sacrificed a lot and I still do it but it is fun. Every day something new happens and I start to be recognized by people of the fashion system that makes many things easier. Selling in Italy is more difficult; the buyers aren’t as open minded and fresh as the international ones. I love my job but I know I would not do this for someone else; I work at night, there’s no weekend of course because sat and sundays the manufacturers and clients are closed and I have my time to concentrate on researching and designing the collection.
Peaches showed interest for my collection and wanted to see some new pieces for NY fashion week and for her program at NylonTv, so I seazed the opportunity and having her for real customer I asked Peaches if she wanted to pose for my advertasing campaign. She accepted and I gave her some pieces she liked! I asked Ilenia (www.vernissageproject.com) for help, ’cause even if she’s not a professional photographer we have a great creative harmony, and we decided to involve Loulou Androlia (www.louloulovesyou.com) for her beautiful bows and started shooting in a cheap and creepy hotel in London: it was an adventure, we lost the return flight to Italy but we did it.

Here pics of her a-w 2011 collection and the great advertising campaign with model Peaches Geldof and concept by Ilenia Corti; one image of her first shooting where I love also the set; and mother and daughter as “Comptoir des Vivettas”.

p.s: Vivetta is offering an internship in Milan: skills in hand drawing, draping and/or pattern making needed. accurate, punctual, cat lover. send message for info (no cv) to vivetta.ponti@gmail.com

Julikafrombudapest

This post was submitted by juliana de nicola (julikafrombudapest).

An interesting combination that may define Carlos Miele contemporary collection.
During a Pr event held in the magic atmosphere of the brand Meatpacking flagship store, the designer muse Lauren Remington Platt styled the collection shooting. A group of shining models featured stylish yet casual cocktails dresses, fluo make up and beaded stilettos.

Thanks to Emilia from Carlos Miele Ny Pr office who gave us a few insights on the brand; such as the launch of Bio Denim, exclusively produced with excess fabric.

Elodie

On saturday the 27th of February I arrived in Milan for the upcoming White show and decided to have a look at this mini show/market hosted in via tortona area as well. I always look for veryvery newcomers that can some times be very dreaming and free-ones, sometime just having fun, sometime having clear ideas and commercial spirit, sometime hobbyists.
In a not very friendly surrounding without light and information at the entrance -situation that in Italy is sometimes better than nothing but should not- many girls had their projects on display. I’m reporting with pics about the nostalgic accessories with Mario Bros and friends by Lady Pix with her collection Pixel Bling, the funny cowboy-owls by Caroline e Sara, the sweet plastic-lace/cake-tablet like bags and necklaces by Coseatre, the dj’s first-need instruments by LazyLeti and the onandon street wear collection with subtle and really original and feminine prints: an essay of what the upcoming summer collection inspired on tarot’s graphic will tell us about our future.
Julikafrombudapest

This post was submitted by juliana de nicola (julikafrombudapest).

The Italian designers Natacha Talay and Ilaria Lepore started their own sleek and sophisticated brand, Synthagma. Here are some pics shot at Pitti Uomo and from their website.

Ariko