Design Catwalk
Paris Fashion week . SACAI . Oversize tailoring from masculine proportions
Chitose Abe knows how to stress the word hybrid through creativity and tailoring, with an amazing collection presented at Paris Fashion Week, Sacai presented garments in oversize shapes defining a feminine runway with closer echoes of masculine proportions. Absolutely stunning in every look presented, the collection seems to be the perfect mix of fresh cut and wearable outfits that I guess, most of the buyer have been waiting for a while. Our only complaint, we would have liked to see artificial fur in the other pieces of the collection we didn't post here!...

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Victoria Tomas tailoring on the Alpes
Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins launched their brand Victoria Tomas only in 2012, one season before becoming the youngest finalists of the 28th Hyeres Festival of Fashion and Photography....

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Xiao li . New languages of fashion
Xiao li was born in China and educated in London. She studied BA womenswear at London College of Fashion and Ma Womenswear knitwear at the Royal College of Art.?July 2012 marked the start of a string of success stories for Xiao Li after winning the ‘Feel The Yarn’ competition. In June of 2013, Xiao Li was announced as the winner of the Loro Piana Award for best knitwear collection and in the following month she went on to receive a Diesel Award from International Talent Support. We fell in love with her brand-new vision of fashion, completely renovated in its language and style....

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Jana Wieland’s Female Winter + A lesson about personal achievement
Young designer Jana Wieland appeared in my researches at the Austrian Fashion Association during its latest awards. Her Winter Collection is a honest and warm mixture of classic winter fabrics and volumes, which are able to make you look cozy and comfortable some hard shapes (already used by other designers previously). Definitely something to wear like an autumn fairy in the city jungle....

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Minki Cheng . Textile patterns, geometries and brandnew designers
Textiles design has a new young guru, Minki Cheng creates garments with a simplicity that interacts with geometries and fabrics for an unconventional new language of fashion. We just love him....

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Ancient techniques revisited by Claudia Susini at Expo Gate
Fascinated by the typical fabric processing techniques of the 1700s (still used a few years ago in the Convent of the Giuseppine Sisters in Empoli), and by the work of Florentine artist Daniela De Lorenzo, Claudia Susini proposed garments with a well-defined structure, thanks also to the use of materials such as white poplin, felt in shades of dark blue, and real leather, which she juxtaposes with technical fabrics that retain the shape given to them. Outfits for young women of strong character, whose aim is to achieve a non-conventional type of elegance....

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A posse of Sweden designers together in shots
The director of the Sven-Harry Michael Elmenbeck, in collaboration with Cia Jansson, creative director of Elle Sweden, gave life in the past months to an exhibition that hosted the work of the leading fashion designers and labels that have contributed to the Swedish fashion success over the last 15 years. ...

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Angelos Bratis . The energy of sunshine yellow lit up Milan fashion week
Triangles, rectangles and semi-circles are starting points for diverse and elusive patterns. A suspended light and tonal colour palette, again close to the pictorial vision and special tones of Moralis: beige, gold, an electric pink, the energy of sunshine yellow and the unfathomable depths of white....

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Parsons NY Gang!
Parsons NY showed with its graduating students at fashion week and had a real high level of image, research and contemporary trends. Jaipei Li, Alan Oakes, Pauline Choi, Matthew Dolan, Lako Bukia, Bei Kuo, Ammar Belal, Jessica Walsh, Amelie Bahlsen, Natallia Pilipenka, Xiaotian Zhang on stage. Still digital prints, technical materials, handmade weavings, words, body parts as print subjects, eclectic compositions....

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The inability of defining the infinite is part of the definition of the infinite
Max.tan’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection introduces the abstract concept of everything probable and impossible, the limitless, the unbounded, and the unconventional. The exploration of this vast idea results in hybrid garments with no hems; end of garments are lengthened and flipped up, transforming into another garment, e.g the hem of a shirtdress is extended into a jacket bodice, morphing a two-piece garment into one....

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Anntian . Etheric projections of abstract geometries
A relaxed fit for a playful life, Anntian Summer collection presents etheric projections of abstract geometries, silk crepe de chine in enstatite print and 100% Organic jersey silkscreen are some of the fabrics chosen. The prints resemble nature patterns and a wide range of light colors which enhance the lightness of the tones and the blouses shapes....

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Eckhaus Latta . An exotic sounding name landed in NY
As their editorial direction reflects, the collection has a row and natural taste. A group of weirdo kinda countryside people smile or stare out of the pics. Strong colors, medieval cuts and big gauge knitwear equally set for male and female outfits make me think of an isolated social group, peaceful or hiding a terrible secret; maybe something like the meth-addicted cannibal tribe in Hbo's True Blood....

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THISISTHEUNIFORM . Transparencies and Overlays
A mix of sportswear classic perfectly combined with precise tailoring through transparencies and overlays in the collection of Jenna Young, a fashion designer based in South London that presents technical pleating in a brand-new vision of lines and intersections called THIS IS THE UNIFORM....

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Alina Brane’s Katarsis Collection
I was very impressed by the imaginary mixture of her Katarsis collection seen in her NJAL profile: Neoclassic style between male and female revisited in 90 shapes with minimal profiles and surfaces; beautiful soft nude, decorative yet strong "feministity" (just invented this word to melt femininity into something that holds inside the female property of it. making any sense?) Katarsis collection was born in the gap between graduating and getting a job, and deals with the longing to belong. In the pursuit of fitting in, the collection examines the concept through playing with obvious factors of fellowship in dressing. The suit is used as a symbol of being part of a crowd, as is the bridesmaids dress. A lot of th...

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Swedish cool + Italian craftmanship: Orphan Bird
Made in Italy equals to handmade, tons of craftmanship, unique skills, high quality of the materials; Scandinavian fashion means minimalistic, interesting volumes, sophisticated avant garde feel. It may sound quite stereotypical, but generally speaking these two worlds are so different that they could be complementary, rather than opposite. That is what happened with Orphan Bird, a clothing label based in Gothemburg, Sweden, founded in 2012 by an Italian designer, Ciro Supino, and a Swedish photographer/visual artist, Sara Lohman. Together they combine a concept from both their respective cultures and backgrounds to create unique aesthetic designs, all made in Europe to ensure the best quality for collection of...

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Harim Jung: Identity + Ethos
It is always interesting to see how new upcoming designers try to solve the recurring dilemma: “it is beautiful, but would people wear it?” I found inspiring how Harim Jung, Korean designer graduated at Parson’s School in New York, worked on experimental pattern making giving a twist to classic pieces of everyday wardrobe, reaching an […]...

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Yvonne Laufer: Void
Yvonne Laufer is a fashion designer with german roots currently based in Copenhagen, Denmark where she graduated with an MA degree from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design. With a passion for the unknown Yvonne Laufer likes to explore new methods and techniques that inspire both silhouette and surface of her designs. She likes projects that combine fashion with other disciplines like art or science. VOID, her last project, is a collection that embraces the presence of negative space. It explores the boundaries between form and non-form as well as materiality and nothingness. A universe of imaginary spaces. She was inspired by a quote by Epicurus of Samos in his Letter to Herodotus, third ce...

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A Blanket is a Coat is Marit Ilison
A conscious and contemporary vision and inspiration for a designer that states: I feel that changing the world can start from ourselves. It is about loving and taking good care about ourselves and surrounding ourselves rather with quality, not quantity.Her collection "Longing for sleep" that brought her to the press for beeing selected to the most "arty" of the fashion competitions in the south of France, that in this upcoming year is directed by the the Opening Ceremony now Kenzo duo, is made of recycled soviet woolen blankets that together with playing with the form, are also playing with nostalgia and every viewer’s and wearer’s personal feelings connected with sleeping and warmth. The bead-embroideries ...

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Christina Ledang creates a second skin’s collection made of rubber
??A first collection that tells a lot of the creative vision that the designer has of fashion, Christina Ledang used rubber for her entire pieces, drawing inspiration from a vintage image of a woman who was wearing only a corset and a camisole while her arms were covered in tattoos. Christina used rubber in order to create something feminine but strong and different like a second skin....

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Piece d’Anarchive: grids everywhere
I see grids everywhere. In natural structures, in buildings, in plays of light and shadows, and of course in catwalks and fashion. That is what probably happened to the designers of Piece d'Anarchive, Deborah and Priscilla Royer, who were inspired by Jean Pierre Raynaud, the conceptualist who spent 25 years building his house-totally patterned in black and white grids-only to decide it was too perfect and, in 1993, tear it to bits. The inspiration is evident in the collection: big and small squares, plays of textures, all translated in sporty and sleek silhouettes, linear and clean....

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Lucìa Benitez and Mercedes Arocena: Domingo
It is beautiful, in this fast fashion dominated world, when some artisanal process almost forgotten or lost is brought to new life, and sometimes even awarded. It is the case of the Uruguayan designers Mercedes Arocena and Lucia Benitez, who were recently awarded the “Dinamic Eco Chic Award” for their ‘Dominga’ minicollection (six pieces) at the prestigious International design contest Mittelmoda in Milan, Italy. The prestigious international fashion design competition showcased 26 collections (both menswear and womenswear and complete with accessories) coming from all over the world. Dominga comes as a result of an experimental investigation process that begins with the wool, a natural sustainable and ...

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Liz Ciokajlo: 3D printed natural shoes
Talking about shoes, last week we wrote about Barbora Veselà and her innovative approach in recycling leather leftovers in order to obtain beautiful and more sustainable shoes. When I got to see the works by Liz Ciokajlo, though, I felt like she's pushing the concept of exploring new possibilities of materials/sustainability/design even further. Liz Ciokajlo, London based designer, presents a truly futuristic concept of footwear. Innovative ideas, focus on natural materials, and new technologies like 3D printing. The project started with the examination of how 3D printing could alter footwear architecture and identify new design constructions. Observations were made that whilst the potential of this new techno...

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Phuong My . Silk and tailoring speak Vietnamese
A refined elegance is the core of the latest Vietnamese designer Phuong My‘s Fall / Winter 2013-14 collection, presenting clean cuts and bright colors for coats, dresses and jackets, the new collection focuses on a mix of wool silk, silk lace, opaque organza and silk net. Inspired by Orient, the silhouette defines, in a harmonious […]...

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Matija Cop and the interlocking modules
One day we'll probably get rid of closets to leave room to new devices, a futuristic projection that might become reality if clothes will be assembled with sets of modules. The garments created by Croatian designer Matija Cop are made from interlocking foam tabs and slots linked together without the use of stitches or glue. "Object 12-1 can be deconstructed and reconstructed in a completely different shape whenever one wishes" says the designer. ...

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Biffi’s African stars, not charity just work
A fantastic event held at Biffi boutique during the Vogue Fashion night out has seen the launch of emerging fashion realities which connects even more Italy with the great Africa. Biffi’s African stars, not charity just work is the claim of the evening where brilliant colors and textures left room for smiles and a sparkling […]...

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Satu Maaranen, Garment in Landscape
Satu Maaranen is a designer from Helsinki and winner of Hyères 2013. She creates avantgarde and innovative garments, which blend with the surroundings, mimic the landscapes, plays with the background. Inspired by landart, camouflage and 60’s Finnish printdesign, she created an amazing, visually and conceptually stunning collection, called “Garment in Landscape”. The major theme in […]...

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The Traveller Nuit Comme Oui
The Traveller Nuit Comme Oui The spring/summer 2014 collection of Nuit Comme Oui is inspired of travels and the mood of people in search for something. The concept is focused on origami, the collection combines wool, cotton and silk with digital prints. There are concrete rules to follow to get the perfect origami collection: everything […]...

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Julia Björkeheim “Lining” collection
It’s so hard to find any information about new and upcoming designers sometimes. It’s the case of Julia Björkeheim, whose only interview I managed to find is dated 2011, when she was a first year student in menswear at London College of Art. What we can guess is that since then Julia changed her mind, […]...

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CO|TE . Talent matters
If I think about talent, I always think at some lines that read like this: “if it works, you can see it from the second release.” As we know it is always very difficult to repeat itself in quality and good results, but it is precisely at this point that the talent comes out in […]...

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WISHARAWISH AKARASANTISOOK . A fashion genius is born
"Find something that amazes you and keep on with the good work for your entire life, I think these are the words that the fashion designer Wisharawish Akarasantisook repeated as a mantra in its own mind before doing so amazing pieces of art. His work is so that both for Mango competition that for the Hyeres festival he has proven to be a rising star with stunning taste and eclectic skills....

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Titania Inglis sustainable minimalism
After Pitti Uomo fair and all its colorful, rich and crazy fashion circus, I’m really in need of something minimal and cool. Tatiana Inglis‘ collection is just what I need in this moment: moreover, like other designers we talked about on DesignCatwalk (Goodone, Elsien Gringhuis, Lu Flux… just to name a few). Every garment is […]...

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LES’ . Less is more if nature becomes wearable
Lesia Paramonova is a talented and young designer, nature in her work plays a big role, every piece seems born in a field of flowers or appearing from some fairy tale. Romanticism is a key word to entertain a dialogue with Lesia's world. Chosen by many famous bloggers as upcoming talent or new muse to wear, the designer has collaborated with the shop Parisienne for a capsule collection became soon a must have. Her creations seems coming from a folk world where butterflies and birds are favourite subjects to depict and to wear....

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Agate, Malachite, Crystal and Amethyst . Gems to wear
If once stones were worn as jewelry, now we can wrap them around the neck thanks to a soft scarf. These magnificent photographs portray amazing natural gems on silk fabrics and vibrant color tones. Beautiful images that depict materials as Agate, Malachite, Crystal and Amethyst, reinterpreted by Jen Altman, a professional photographer and author. She is also a jewelry designer and the author of three books and two blogs Nectar and All About Eve. I really love some of these scarves, it's astonishing seeing something apparently so sharp being worn with elegance around your weakest body part....

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HIGHLOW presents Loverboy/s . When Jewels talk of love
I loved HIGHLOW jewelry as soon as I stumbled upon the site of the designer Sonya Gallardo. With a degree in Painting & Drawing at California College of the Arts San Francisco in her Loverboy/s Collection Sonya focuses on romantic love and how to represent it in jewelry. Each piece in this project consists of a pairing of two parts and what they represent reflects some of her ideals on what love is. Combining vintage with new, ancient and modern, tradition with the unexpected, the designer gives life to an amazing collection with new languages of fashion that we're thrilled to present as a perfect example of mix between tradition and new....

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Ria Keburia: new fashions from Georgia
Thanks to my Georgian friend Natia I discovered the works of Ria Keburia, young talented fashion designer from Georgia, showed her first collection on Kiev Fashion week and her second in Moscow, having in her future plans shows Paris, city where she's been living and creating for the past 6 yars. The history of becoming a designer started with a passion of making hand-made toys, which Ria created for her friends while she was living in Moscow. Later, after finishing studying communications in American University of Paris, she attended the International Fashion Academy where she is still studying fashion design. Ria Keburia Spring Summer collection is a modern interpretation of Georgian motives. In the first loo...

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Aina Beck: denim and foiling
Making some research about denim and new printing techniques for a company I am currently working for, I found the work of Aina Beck, a Norway born designer that made a stand out collection last season at Parsons The New School for Design's MFA Fashion Design and Society program. Printing on knitwear, mixing geometric silhouettes on French tulle, exploring the use of new mediums, experimenting with denim and metallic foiling: Beck's collection is aestethically clean and cool, and technically intriguing. I get inspired through the process of work working with different mediums,the relationship between me and the material is important. The collection tells a tale of journey through personally developed prints and...

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Peiran Gong: trompe l’oeil in neoprene
Trompe l'oeil is in the air... remember Louise Amstrup? Or Karla Spetic? In those cases, though, print was digital and created a distortion of the space by turning the garments in true landscapes. Peiran Gong's collection is more subtle: a clever use of pastel colour, handmade prints that remind me of some examples of airbrush graphic works of the 80s. All on neoprene garments that shape an illusion around the human body. Peiran Gong graduated from the Royal College of Art’s MA Fashion Womenswear course, after completing her BA degree in Academy of Art and Design, Tsinghua University (Beijing, CHINA) in 2010. The store Machine-A in Soho, london, features her graduation collection pieces, according to the stor...

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Winde Rienstra: Mourning Cloaks
[Death is] The natural course of our earthly life, in which every culmination is a turning point and marks a new beginning, as darkness is followed by light. We all roam these border areas from time to time before finding our new direction. In this particular moment of my life, where death and separation are very present, this words in a frivolous world like fashion struck me and made me want to know more about who they refer to. Winde Rienstra’s latest collection (her fourth for Amsterdam Fashion Week) was inspired by the Mexican Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) as well as the old Japanese era of samurai and geisha. Vanished worlds with strong cultural connections to death, in which our move into the af...

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InAisce: not all who wander are lost
It's quite a bit that I'm thinking about writing a post on the American brand InAisce. But only when I took a quick look to their current and past collections, I realized that there's something more to say, other than the brand's got a beautifully neat aesthetic. InAisce, meaning "in vain" in Gaelic is the work of a designer based out of New York, Jona (whose surname is undisclosed). Inspired by historical figures, events, art and photography, as well as incredible stories of actual history the designer creates visions of utilitarian clothing from the past with a modern touch and unique fabrics. What struck me is the sense of loneliness, rarefaction, wandering that permeates the collections, and that made me th...

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Charlotte Pringels: braille and fashion
To convey feelings, disease, different conditions, even menomations: fashion is an effective media for such kind of communication. Belgian designer Charlotte Pringels tried to investigate the way a person would experience being ‘blind’ through her collection "Wonderful Moments". I was fascinated by the movie 'Blind' by Tamar van den Dop, a Dutch movie made in 2007. Not so much the story, but rather the atmosphere inspired me. I started to wonder what it would mean to live as a blind person. In what way other senses do develop and whether the sense of touch can take it over from the eyes. I started thinking how I could translate this feeling into garments. It was a big challenge for me because it was not jus...

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Yvonne Kwok’s fashion marionettes
I really liked Yvonne Kwok’s graduation collection, called “We Dance Like Little Mary’s Swaying To The Symphony Of Destruction.” The best thing is to let the designer speak for herself: My concept is about the battle with the mental disorder caused by the restrictions within the fashion system where pressure plays a major role. With reference to the marionette “a person who is in the service of someone else”, I want to make a mockery of this subject. The grotesque body also plays a role. It is related to the caricature which body parts are enlarged and removed from the classical ideal of beauty. The translation to my collection is a bombastic use of color. Warm tones combined with bright accents an...

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Stella Jean . Wax & Stripes for a runway rich of colors
Stella Jean is a talented Italo-Haitian designer, she began her career in fashion by working as a model for Egon Von Fürstenberg, (you can't believe how good her creations fit on her) since when she discovered her real creative calling. She won the prestigious Who’s On Next contest, an important competition for young designers in Italy, from that moment onwards she was noticed by the biggest names of international press and buyers for her incredible talent on mixing patterns and colors with a sophisticated and yet fresh touch....

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Steven Tai and his confident nerds
Today as I woke up I felt like wearing a Sacai tshirt that I never managed to wear since I bought it several weeks ago. It is a very cute garment, the front is in grey mélange cotton jersey and the back in silk satin of the same shade of grey, but the reason why I find it so difficult to be worn is that the back is lined with a stiff tulle that makes my back look "rounded", I mean, in a cute way, giving it a boxy volume. Yet, it looks like I'm a bit of a hunchback. ...

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Louise Amstrup’s vintage and digital New York
Who knows me well knows that I have a weakness for digital prints. And if you're loyal readers of Designcatwalk, you could have noticed by yourself, since my posts here are often related to collections where prints have a leading role, like when I wrote about Craig Green's minimal pilgrims, Kay Kwok illuminated fashion or Karla Spetic's trompe l'oeils, to name a few of the latest. ...

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Siripirun Tan, a meadow full of geometric folded fabrics
The world of Siripirun Tan is a place defined by an incredible creative flair, a wide range of folded figures are handcrafted and proposed in three dimensional textures where there's no space left for banality. They seem like flowers, like geometric shapes or colored waves made of precious fabrics. I'm a designer and amidst all the disciplines that I studied in the past years, "modular pattern" was one of my favorite. We drew shapes that we transformed in textures and the thing that intrigued me most of this discipline was when a simple sign could transform itself into an ocean of little elements with the identity completely changed. This amazing work of art handcrafted in unpadded matelassè and ge...

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Andrei Amado . Grease as main theme for a fashion collection
It is common to think that the pursuit of happiness in fashion always matches a perfect silhouette, "stretch" might be the magic word for those who are obsessed by a perfect body (that not always means a perfect soul). Andrei Amado is a German fashion designer who tried to combine together fabrics with furs, the result is quite unusual but absolutely interesting. Andrei got a lot of exposure to blogs and digital media in the past months, quite weird to talk about him now since that spring is all around, but if you follow us you see that predictability is not our strong suit. I never expected to see jersey leotards (closer to aerobic styles) shaping fading furs. You never know where beauty comes from and the ...

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